Let's try to perform the installation of FreeBSD on the Pocket C.H.I.P :)

freebsd video and wifi support is close to nonexistent on all arm boards so if someone develops it at least use a more modern board
pandora is eoled ancient hw and is as thick as an orange pi + a car lead acid battery
 
I found the VGA DIP for the Pocket CHIP. We will see if it will work on FreeBSD. I can also try the composite video. At this point I need to find an old LCD panel that can use VGA or composite...I also have your waveshare screen to try,but in this case I should find the HDMI DIP,also. Or I can save some money by buying a converter,VGA to HDMI :) I have some hope to be able to solve the video issue. I'm looking for alternatives because I think like you that the embedded screen requires a driver that will not work on FreeBSD.
 
or example HDMI doesn't work on the Rockchip RK3328 because the development on FreeBSD is incomplete...
I blame alot of the problems on the manufacturers.
They put togrether a BSP for a platform and they stay on the same version of Linero U-Boot without contruibuiting back to u-boot.
They expect the community to do the heavy lifting.
Raxda is using a 2018 u-boot tree for the Rock3a build. It took 3 years from board release to get a community u-boot build.

Also DTS is still a voodoo science. Finally dtbindings and u-boot people are coordinating.
 
When I will try to boot FreeBSD on the Pocket CHIP this is the first thing I will try :


I'm sure that the job of Vadot is not complete. I will need to be helped by some of you...
 
Well my approach to porting to unsupported platform is building u-boot.
If you have to use somebodies u-boot just give up now.
Hardcore but using somebodies work from 2016 will bring you much pain.
You might see a little bit of board working but left with much disappointment.

Build your own u-boot and you are in command. Not depending on someone else choices.
So much changes on Arm that you need to learn how to build u-boot. Either in-ports tree or out of tree.

Then you can build for all the SOC we support.

Having a guide is excellent but don't depend on it. I would explore the u-boot config for CHIP.
I bet it supports USB booting now. So you could disable/short SPI/MMC and boot right off newer u-boot via USB.
 
Well my approach to porting to unsupported platform is building u-boot.
If you have to use somebodies u-boot just give up now.
Hardcore but using somebodies work from 2016 will bring you much pain.
You might see a little bit of board working but left with much disappointment.

Build your own u-boot and you are in command. Not depending on someone else choices.
So much changes on Arm that you need to learn how to build u-boot. Either in-ports tree or out of tree.

Then you can build for all the SOC we support.

Having a guide is excellent but don't depend on it. I would explore the u-boot config for CHIP.
I bet it supports USB booting now. So you could disable SPI/MMC and boot right off newer u-boot via USB.

Even if I can,I can't boot FreeBSD from USB,because I will use the USB port to power on the LCD screen :


6.25inch-720x1560-LCD-details-3.jpg
 
I regret to inform you that getting video out will be among the last steps in porting.
You will need to focus on the UART to get it working then worry about video.
 
uart, clocks, power controller, gpio. usb. thats the start. then dma, sound, video amd wifi..video amd wifi are rhe hard part
 
If you are truly a tinkerer you should have a powered usb hub in your toolkit.

Its no different than trying to get a tablet working in FreeBSD. You must have the right tools.
 
and is as thick as an orange pi + a car lead acid battery
Hey I like Lead Acid Batteries for projects.
PRO:They are simple and do not burn.
CONS: 6V-12V are most common sizes. 5V is needed. WEIGHT.

For a car-puter weight is not an issue. I built a simple box around SLA12v-7ah and mounted boards on top.
My solution is add buck board for 5V and PicoUPS board. Headless GPS tracker. I use PicoUPS for splitter and charger.
I can unplug from car and carry around then plug into 15V at home to interrogate.
 
Well presuming you are able to disable the MMC's u-boot and boot off USB then you have UART serial console.
But if you get further you may find a single USB port is not enough. You may need a regular keyboard in addition to a USB stick.
That is when the hub comes to play. Plus powering the monitor should be done via hub at first. Make sure the boards USB circuits are beefy enough to handle amps. I doubt it. 500ma on CHIP single USB2 port I would presume. USB Type C allows much more.
 
Do you know if I can buy and where,a battery pack to power on the RockPro64 rk3399 through the USB port...or maybe a powerbank is a better choice ? I presume that this the only choice I have to make a rudimentary mobile device without making soldering on the mobo. Maybe to avoid making a brick,this could be nice :


Not sure if it is enough to power on the board,the WI-FI adapter or the Router + Sim card + LCD screen and some other little devices like a keyboard and mouse. Because I need of all of that when I will be out of my home.
 
Power bank is fine. I started out with them.
Mounted Pi2 on top and had u3g modem and run wifi for 'pocket' mimo.

Eight 18650 batteries and a level indicator, with plug to recharge and USB Jacks and 5V.
What was your question? Not quite a UPS but similar.

LiPo/LiFePo4 are all complicated. SLA is EZ. That is where I ended up.
Sure I wanted battery monitoring via my Arm64 board but you get what you pay for.
Maybe someday I do power monitoring via GPIO voltage divider board.
 
Not sure if it is enough to power on the board,the WI-FI adapter or the Router + Sim card + LCD screen and some other little devices like a keyboard and mouse.
Whoa thats alot for a battery pack.

Look at the pictures of the battery pack you linked to.

It uses flat packs like phones. They are OK but pale in comparison to 18650 cell battery packs/banks.
You can pull them out of pack and charge in a charger. I like that.
18650 battery packs are much thicker and heavier but the same as laptop battery packs use.

I think 18650 will give you more kick than flat pack batteries. You need to get real cells from good brand.(Panasonic,Sammy).
The battery packs I bought came empty and I had to populate them. They were very cheap and I bought several different ones.
Similar to this;

Maybe 8 Cells is too extreme and start with 4 cell battery bank.
 
This is what I was looking for. Can you also provide a link to buy the batteries ? Not only the KIT charger box...thanks.
 
also provide a link to buy the batteries ?
This part is hard. Lots of fakes in market. you need to look for local battery specialist.
I bought a whole brick of them from a reputable seller. $7ea at case price/24. Top end Panasonic cells in sealed case.

You also should know not all 18650 are the same. Beyond chemistry some have a regulator build in the end of battery.
Some like laptop batteries do not use a regulator on each battery but use a BMC battery management controller for the whole pack.

You go into Vape Shop and they sell regulated cells. You cannot run them down to zero. They cut out. They also protect against overcharge. Its built into the end of battery like a coin cell but is controller/regulator. You have to cut the first layer open to see it.

The laptop style use a different top because they solder together the cells for series.

My first charger was the VC4. It is good starter model.

There are also RC Car battery packs with some serious punch. They use standard connectors are are easy to work with.
Different chargers on that scene.


I have no dealing with this shop but I noticed they are calling them "Protected Cells".
These cells are midrange.
 
This part is hard. Lots of fakes in market. you need to look for local battery specialist.
I bought a whole brick of them from a reputable seller. $7ea at case price/24. Top end Panasonic cells in sealed case.

You also should know not all 18650 are the same. Beyond chemistry some have a regulator build in the end of battery.
Some like laptop batteries do not use a regulator on each battery but use a BMC battery management controller for the whole pack.

You go into Vape Shop and they sell regulated cells. You cannot run them down to zero. They cut out. They also protect against overcharge. Its built into the end of battery like a coin cell but is controller/regulator. You have to cut the first layer open to see it.

The laptop style use a different top because they solder together the cells for series.

My first charger was the VC4. It is good starter model.

There are also RC Car battery packs with some serious punch. They use standard connectors are are easy to work with.
Different chargers on that scene.


I have no dealing with this shop but I noticed they are calling them "Protected Cells".
These cells are midrange.

The charger + 4 batteries costs a lot more than a Power Bank. Do you have something against the Power Bank ?
 
Since you are new to these get what you like and meets your needs.
Buy them with batteries for convience.. Matter of personal opinion really. I like customizing things.
 
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