e.g. log files are constantly accessed and written, although those writes end up in cache/txg/dirty_writes first and are only periodically committed - but as said, IIRC zfs metadata is updated ASAP, so atime for a dataset with constantly open/updated files can very well be the reason...It looks like atime is enabled for all datasets on that zpool. But doesn't this being a problem suppose that something (in userspace) is actually reading the filesystem? `zpool iostat -v 1` doesn't show any read operations. Only write operations.
Basically you can disable atime for everything that isn't dependant on this information - like e.g. maildir storage or some file-based databases. The only dataset I could find on the quick actually was the /var/mail dataset on one of our mailservers...
You also mentioned VMs - any chance there is something from redmond running on one of those? that toy OS is extremely pesky when it comes to random and pointless disk IO even when completely idle...